Day two was the start of our self-tour of Copenhagen. There wasn’t much I knew about Denmark before planning for this trip and admittedly even after then I don’t have a clear picture of what makes Denmark, Denmark. So thanks to some friends, the blogosphere and Google, I was able to put together some semblance of a well thought out itinerary to get the most out of Copenhagen.
The morning started off at Strøget, a major shopping district in the heart of central Copenhagen. There are so many shops in this area from designer brands, sport stores, souvenir shops, to restaurants and everything in between. What I loved most about Strøget is the design of the district. The paved cobblestone walkway inbetween European style apartments made it fun trying to navigate the area. Do not be mistaken, it is not a closed off pedestrian area, once in a while you might see an oncoming car and there isn’t a shortage of bicyles to watch out for. There are many hidden treasures and fun stores, one of my favourites being Flying Tiger. It has a random selection of home items from cat beds to trivets and stationery. Everything is really affordable and great for souvenir gifting as almost everything in the store is “designed in Denmark with love.” My other favourite store is of course the Lego shop. Lego stores are always fun but this one in Strøget tops all other Lego stores I have ever stepped in. This particular Lego store housed some pretty fun Lego models (like life sized Lego people riding bikes) and a motif of the city of Copenhagen. Needless to say, I could have stayed a lot longer at Lego but there was a lot more we had to go see!
A short ten minute walk from Strøget lies Tivoli Gardens, one of the highlights and MUST SEEs of Copenhagen. This garden-amusement park hybrid definitely lives up to the hype and has much to offer. It is here that shows how seriously Denmark takes themed days. Brimming with pumpkin patches, scarecrows and a multitude of other Halloween-themed displays, Tivoli was in full festive mood! It made walking all over the gardens so much more amusing. At some point we started playing spot the scarecrow (as there are well over 100 displayed in and around the park.) There are also many themed rides throughout Tivoli but we decided to wander around every nook and cranny we could find and ended up finding so many cool little shops. My absolute favourite one is the candy shop Bolchekogeriet Almuegaarden which has the famous Danish pulled- candy. They have a special warm lollipop fresh that comes out of the candy machine in six different flavours on a daily basis. This sweet treat cannot be missed and make great little gifts. The attention to detail makes Tivoli a wonderful place to visit.
To wrap up the day we took a free green shuttle from Vestoport to the Carlsberg Brewery. It was an incredible time and here my first blog guest, my lovely travel companion Lyris will regale our adventure at the reknowned Danish Brewery.
The original Carlsberg brewery we visited is the first of its kind which opened its doors in 1847; the roan brick building built in the stately Danish fashion consists of three main buildings surrounded by a high brick wall enclosure, and an iron wrought gate at the entrance. Excited to be at our first Danish brewery, Yvonne and I hopped off the shuttle bus and began conversing, only to be interrupted by two gentlemen walking just alongside us. They asked where we were from and seemed interested in befriending us, but we promptly lost them after we received our passes as they (presumably) sped off to redeem their beer vouchers, while Yvonne and I leisurely conducted our self-guided tour. Carlsberg brewery imparted a look into the original brewing of Carlsberg beer, political developments and business entanglements, how it managed to add to Copenhagen’s international prestige and how Carlsberg helped shape Danish gastronomic culture.
Shelves lined with 150 years of Carlsberg bottle labels, bottle redesigns and their offshoots greeted us from the stairs in the first room attested to the tenure Carlsberg has maintained since it has been founded. Cavernous ruins bathed in an effervescent blue light, and flickering shadows of workers in the background were reminiscent of days past: When workers would knead the barley in the cool damp concrete basement of the brewery in order to prepare the barley malt. We were invited to operate the antiquated machines used before brewing was an automated process, and to stroll through the stables where the Danish Jutland workhorses were kept—the same breed of work horses that would transport the beer into town from the brewery. Although they don’t serve the same function as they did in days of yore, the horses still pull carriages around the brewery for children and families. Yvonne is a horse lover, whereas they are not as much to my liking, but the workhorses were magnificent, regardless. Yvonne’s face lit up with delight as she went about the stables greeting nearly every horse, some receptive to the attention and while others gazed off into the distance in their pen. We wondered as to why the horses were still kept at the stables, and a stablehand informed us that it was one of the tenets as long as the Carlsberg franchise continued: to always keep horses at the stables and to still have brewing operations at the original building.
Moving on to our first tasting session at the back of the merchandising shop, a very handsome man (Alex) with a velvety deep voice gave us a brief detail of the beers we could choose. Yvonne chose a deep coffee and whisky flavoured black ale and I opted for the golden ale thinking it was more of an amber. The amber washed clean on my palate with only a hint of bitterness. Yvonne’s port was much more decadent by far with a deep coffee bitterness and a hint of whiskey (or so she says) and notes of berries (or so our bartender says). We walked around the gift shop and snagged a couple of branded merchandise. One cooler-lunch bag for Yvonne and Carlsberg boxers for my gent back home. What could be more hip than Danish beer branded boxers?
Finally, our last stop was the Carlsberg bar above the brewery where we could claim our last beer voucher. We seated ourselves and two familiar faces greeted us from the corner of our eye. The two gents from the shuttle bus asked if they could sit with us, so we all settled together. One is a Norwegia and the other a blonde Fin. They had come together on an annual man-cation and had known one another from their university days. We talked over the course of the night and jokingly named them our Scandinavian boyfriends.
Overall, the Carlsberg brewery was quite the experience: we made our first Scandanavian friends in Copenhagen, learned more about Carlsberg’ roots, and had the chance to sample domestic Carlsberg drafts (Tuborg!!) that aren’t available in Canada. All in all a fantastic day two in Copenhagen.